Eating Stumptown: Becoming a Locavore in Portland, Oregon

Making Cheese

By: Mary Sue

21-11-2011

So, I meant to post these last week, write about homemade polenta, and then discuss some Thanksgiving Day goodness… But, me and my computer are in a fight. In fact, its incessant wining is giving me a headache right now. Lately, within minutes of starting in the morning, it reaches 200 degrees and then begins running its super fan all day long. I should start frying my eggs on this thing. By the end of the work day I am so sick of my hot fingers and the annoying pitch of the fan, I shut it off in disgust. But, I have so much to share with you guys that I am willing to put up with it.

That is how much I love you.

A few weeks ago, my friend, Amy, brought me to a cheese-making class at Champoeg Creamery. You may remember that my old cheese club, Curds and Whey, went out there last summer and made some delicious homemade butter.

The class itself covered making a lot of great products: yogurt, butter, mascarpone, and queso fresco. We ate mascarpone fudge, feta cheese, slices of queso fresco, cheesy dips… And then we got to see the cows.

It was a fantastic day.

Champoeg Creamery’s owner, Charlotte

And my beautiful friend, Amy, with a mighty cute cow.

If anyone ever wants to make cheese, let me know. It is easy despite being a bit like chemistry class. And who didn’t love chemistry class?

Oven-Roasted Chanterelles

By: Mary Sue

08-11-2011

Blog, Locavorism, Recipe

I stepped outside this weekend and realized something… It is cold! Is it going to be like this until June? Really? I think I forgot what 46 degrees feels like. I also have a sinking suspicion this happens to me every year. I am surprised when it is hot, surprised when it is cold. You’d think our human brains would have a better memory for weather, but maybe it is like pain. You really don’t want to remember.

This cold, relatively dry fall has brought us one thing in the Pacific NW: a bumper crop of chanterelle mushrooms. I am sure there is some fancy mushroomy reason behind it, but all I care about it eating as many as I can.

So, last week I baked some and added them with their juices over a bowl of polenta. It was a great accompaniment to a pork chop and a salad. And then, per usual, I reheated it the next day and put a poached egg on top. What did you expect?

Below you will find a recipe for the mushrooms and later this week I will talk about making polenta from scratch. It tastes so much better than the store-bought tube stuff and it takes very little cooking skills, so don’t be scared.

Oven-roasted chanterelles
8 oz of chanterelles
1 tbsp of olive oil
1 tbsp of butter, cut into small pieces (or melted)
2 tbsp of diced shallots
1 tbsp fresh thyme, chopped
1/4 tsp of salt
1/8 tsp of ground pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Clean and cut mushrooms into 1/4 inch slices, removing the woody stem. Toss onto a baking sheet with olive oil, butter, shallots, thyme, salt and pepper. Cook for 15-20 minutes, stirring a couple of times. When tender, remove from oven, save your cooking liquid and drizzle over mushrooms.

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Vegetarian Chili

By: Mary Sue

21-10-2011

Blog, Recipe

What is your go-to recipe when you are cooking for a group? My favorites are roast chicken and short ribs, but sometimes those dishes involve way too much time I don’t have. Plus, living in Portland means you are likely to run across a vegan, a vegetarian, and a gluten-intolerant all at the same party. Short ribs with a crusty bread just isn’t going to cut it.

I have tackled this problem in the past by making three main courses and just hoping that everyone could find something to eat. This takes a lot of time and, not to mention, money. So when Erik told me about this delicious chili recipe he stole from his friend, Brett, I was thrilled. It is easy, delicious and vegan – with some yummy toppings that will please all sorts of eaters.

This past weekend, Erik raced cyclocross – you know this sport, right? Cyclists ride mud-covered, off-camber courses that have barriers demanding you get off your bicycle and jump over, lugging your bicycle with you. It is not for wimps (like me who is really afraid of hurting myself, being yelled at by aggressive riders, and generally looking like the world’s biggest idiot.)

The best part about the races, if you are thinking about attending or joining, is the atmosphere. Tents line up along the course, cheering riders on with cowbells and obnoxious screams. There are vendors selling waffles, french fries, and sometimes, beer. This year, with the team’s new tent, we were able to bring a camp stove, chairs, and a fireplace. It is like camping, but you get to shower and sleep in your bed at night. Awesome.

In order to keep myself busy (and discourage others from encouraging me to stop being a weenie), I made this chili for a crowd of hungry racers and spectators. My only regret is that I didn’t make more.

Vegetarian Chili
Feeds 8

2 Tbsp olive oil
3 cups of chopped onion (one really large or two medium)
6 cloves of garlic, chopped
2 Tbsp of cumin
2 Tbsp of chili powder
1 Tbsp of ground coriander
2 tsp of cayenne pepper (more or less for desired spice)
6 cans of beans, drained (I use a mix of kidney, black, and pinto) or 4 cups dried beans, soaked and cooked*
1 28 oz can of crushed tomatoes including juices
1/2 cup cilantro (plus more for toppings)
Salt to taste

Toppings
Sour cream
Cilantro
Shredded cheddar cheese
Diced jalapeno or hot sauce

Heat olive oil on medium-low in a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Add onions and cook for 8-10 minutes, until softened but not browned. Add garlic and cook for another minute. Pour in cumin, chili powder, coriander, and cayenne and cook for about two minute. Dump in beans and tomatoes. Bring pot to a boil and then down to a simmer for about 15 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of cilantro and cook for another 5. Salt and serve with whatever toppings you choose!

*If you start with dried beans (I did this last time and kind of like them better!), first soak the beans overnight in cool water. You want to cover them with at least three times as much liquid. Next, drain the beans and place in a pot on low (or crockpot) with at least 2 inches of water covering the beans. Bring the beans to a simmer and cook for 2-4 hours, checking after the first hour for doneness. The beans should not be al dente, but also not completely broken down. I cooked mine 3/4 of the way and then finished the cooking in the chili and it worked fine. I just had to add water to my chili.

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Caramelized Cauliflower

By: Mary Sue

10-10-2011

Blog, Recipe

After a reluctance to accept fall’s arrival, I have finally embraced it. I forgot how comforting fall food can be: long-roasted vegetables and meat; hearty salads with fruit, cheese, and nuts; and soul-warming soups. Because, in the Northwest once the rain starts we all know it isn’t going to stop until next summer and we need comfort from anywhere we can get it.

In an effort to dive into the season, I created a full-fall dinner Saturday night including sauteed pork chops; a salad with goat cheese, toasted walnuts, and pears; and my new favorite side dish, caramelized cauliflower.

You have prepared cauliflower this way, right? Sliced thinly and then baked in the oven on a high heat until the florets have started to brown and sweeten? No? I love cauliflower and this way really brings out it’s best qualities.

The recipe I make would horrify my mom, considering it uses not just one, but two types of dried fruit. A lot of people are in the no-surprise-raisins camp and get pretty angry when someone slips them into a dish without warning. So, when adding them to this caramelized cauliflower I like to keep them out in the open, so anyone who wants to can eat around them pretty easily. You are welcome, Mom.

Caramelized Cauliflower with Golden Raisins and Currents
Serves 4
1 small head of cauliflower, cut into fourths and then 1/4 inch slices
2 tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp of kosher salt (or to taste)
1/2 tsp of cumin
1/8 tsp freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 tbsp of golden raisins
1 1/2 tbsp of dried currants

Preheat the oven to 425. Toss the sliced cauliflower with the olive oil, salt, pepper, and cumin. Lay the cauliflower on a baking sheet, spreading them out so they lay flat. Place in the oven for 15 minutes. Flip the cauliflower and return to the oven for 10 minutes. At this point, check to see if the cauliflower is starting to brown. Add the raisins and currants for the last five minutes. Remove from the oven when the raisins have plumped and the florets are a golden brown and serve. (If you had to pull your cauliflower out before you add the raisins, add them to the cauliflower and let them sit for a minute.)

Healthy “cookie dough” and other fun treats…

By: Mary Sue

03-10-2011

Blog, Recipe

Before a few weeks ago, I used to be able to sit through fast forwarding commercials on my DVR with the upmost patience. I used to be able to wait for someone to call me right back without logging on to the computer. I could read books and peruse magazines on the weekends. But, things have changed. I found Pinterest and every spare twelve seconds I have is spent searching through photos of far-off places, delicious foods, cool clothes, and, of course, food. This site, if you haven’t heard, is basically collections of photos that link back to their original source. It can be used as a style board for redecorating your house, a place to store ideas for big events, an inspiration for outfits, and a cloud storage for online recipes. Oh, and did I mention the photos of kittens?

For this kitty, and so much more, check out my pins. Also, sign up so I can follow you!

In one of my many pinterest wormholes, I found that someone had posted a recipe for healthy cookie dough and I had to click on the link to see just how it was possible to make HEALTHY cookie dough – and how fast I could do it. The original source came from Chocolate Covered Katie, who makes healthy vegan desserts that are low in sugar and still taste good. (Believe me, I know, I too was a skeptic).

Today, after staring at the recipe for a few days, I decided to make it around lunch time. The recipe promised to be high in fiber and protein, so I figured it sort of counted as lunch. I modified Katie’s original recipe a bit, including decreasing the amount of sugar, and after eating a small bowl (seen above) I was completely full. In fact, it is almost six and I am still not hungry!

The “cookie dough” was good enough that I would definitely serve it at a party the way she explains on her blog, with graham crackers, or keep in the fridge to munch on when I get the urge to eat ice cream (or actual cookies).

Let me know if you make it!

Adapted from Katie’s Healthy Cookie Dough (just for eating – not for baking)

1 1/2 cups chickpeas (1 can, drained)
start with 1/8 tsp of salt, add more to taste (I ended up with about 1/4 tsp)
tiny bit over 1/8 tsp baking soda
2 tsp pure vanilla extract, more to taste (I added 3 tsp total)
1/4 cup nut butter (peanut butter will work, but maybe use less so it doesn’t taste too peanut-y)
up to 1/4 cup milk (start with 1 tbsp and add more as needed – she uses nondairy milk, but I used the cow’s stuff)
1/4 cup of brown sugar (Katie makes this without sugar or up to 2/3 cup to your taste)
1/3 cup chocolate chips
2 to 3 tbsp oats (If you omit, don’t include the milk)

Add all ingredients (except for chocolate chips) to a blender or food processor, and blend until very smooth. Then mix in the chocolate chips.

And I thought I got rid of the traveling bug for a while…

By: Mary Sue

23-09-2011

Blog

Just when I was getting used to being back home and feeling pretty good about it, I see these videos. 11 countries in 44 days. Wow.

EAT from Rick Mereki on Vimeo.

MOVE from Rick Mereki on Vimeo.

LEARN from Rick Mereki on Vimeo.

First day of fall… Nay! Squeezing the most out of summer

By: Mary Sue

21-09-2011

Blog, Recipe

I looked up at the calendar today and realized it is the first day of fall. I am so not ready to say goodbye to the warm, long days of summer. Nor am I ready for the onset of winter squashes about to hit the market. I still want tomatoes, cucumbers, corn, and basil! Is it really over?

I was about to share with you my last hold on to summer – a gazpacho I made this week – only to realize I already shared a gazpacho recipe last year, here. I only make it once a year, probably because we end up eating it for every meal for the next four days, but it always screams summer. If you still have ripe tomatoes, make it before they are all gone.

In hope to find something else to share, I looked in my photo archives for another dish that has defined our meals this summer and realized I hadn’t told you about my new favorite vegetable: Padron peppers. They are these tiny Spanish peppers with just a hint of spiciness and are DEVINE when grilled or sauteed.

The first time I made them, to pair with this flank steak, I was trying to save some for Erik when he came home from work. Instead, I ate all of them and then called him to tell him just how good they were. He, strangely, didn’t appreciate hearing about food he might have liked if I hadn’t eaten it all. Weird.

Making them is simple. First, I tossed them in a bit of olive oil before putting them on the grill.

They stay on the grill for about 2-3 minutes a side, just until they start to blister a bit and the skins darken.

Then, I just sprinkled them with coarse kosher salt and gave them a quick toss. (If you want to cook them in a saute pan, no prob, I had the same delicious result. Heat up some olive oil on medium-high, throw in the peppers for a couple minutes until they start to blister, salt, and serve.)

Next, I ate them out of this bowl. I have made them again with shavings of parmesan cheese, which was delicious but not necessary. I just saw them this week at the farmers’ market and may have to have them one more time as a last farewell to summer.

What are you doing to say goodbye to my favorite season?

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The Season of Tomatoes

By: Mary Sue

15-09-2011

Blog, Canning

Last year when I started canning, I had a only one goal: to put up as many tomatoes as I could. (For those not caught up on your canning lingo, “put up” is ole-timey way of saying “can”.) I tracked what I used from my pantry the year before and realized I went through way more cans of tomatoes than anything else. Black beans and tuna were a close second, but I am definitely not at a point where I feel comfortable canning my own tuna! So, all summer I bided my time. I canned jams, pickles, beets, peaches, and just about anything I could get my hands on until it was time for the tomatoes.

Then… came September. I saw the price of tomatoes at the farmers’ market hover around $3 to $4 a pound. I’d pick up a dull, light-red tomato and take a whiff, smelling nothing – not the sweet, ripe, tomato-y flavor I’d hoped for. Farmers claimed it just never got and stayed warm enough to get bushels of ripe tomatoes. I was devastated. So, instead of canned tomatoes I made green tomato salsa and sweet green tomato pickles, I found the best red tomatoes and canned salsa in limited quantities, and I waited…

This year the weather has not been so mean. We had a slow start to summer, but the last month has been warm and sunny. I started looking around at farms and realized my CSA farmer from last year, Sun Gold Farm, was selling 20 pound boxes of San Marzanos – the king of canned tomatoes. So, with my friend, Rebecca, we bought 40 pounds and got to work.

After 6 hours of cleaning, scoring, blanching, peeling, and canning tomatoes we were left with 6 quart jars each, plus 4 pints of tomato juice each. I don’t know about you, but 6 quarts is sadly not enough to get me through until next September. I probably use about a quart and a half a month in soups, braises, and sauces.

So, in a week we are going to be at it again. Luckily, we learned some things that we will continue the next go-around.

Two water bath canners are necessary for this many tomatoes. The quart jars take 45 minutes to process and if you had to wait to sterilize new jars in between you are looking at an additional 30-45 minutes just waiting for water to boil.
When using two water bath canners, setting one up outside is the nicest thing in the world. I am so happy Erik let us use his camping stove for this.

An assembly line is key and rotating jobs frequently will decrease back and shoulder pain as well as increase tolerance for tomatoes.

I may purchase a food mill between now and next weekend. We made tomato juice by straining the leftover skins and seeds and then cooking down, but I bet we can get more out of it if we processed through a food mill. I am thinking of buying this one. What do you think? Does anyone own a food mill and love it? Should I stay away from the OXO version?

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Squash Salad with Mint, Basil and Chevre

By: Mary Sue

12-09-2011

Blog, Recipe

Late summer is the best time to live in the Northwest. Our weather is finally consistently warm and our gardens are overflowing veggies. Have you been to the farmers’ market lately? The colorful rows of tomatoes, peppers, and summer squashes scream at you to eat them. (EAT ME! EEEAAAT MEEEEE!)

But, if you have high yield zucchini plant in your garden you have zucchini up the yin-yang about now. It is daunting to keep up with the amount of zucchini those plants produce. I have heard of people dropping off bags of zucchini on neighbors’ doorsteps when they aren’t home. Unfortunately, my puny garden couldn’t handle zucchini and I haven’t seen any bag-fulls on my doorstep. I would gladly accept them if you were curious…

Whenever I hear of a good zucchini recipe, I feel like it is my duty to share it with all those folks drowning in squash – and for those of us who buy arm loads every chance we get. A while ago, I had dinner with some friends at Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty, one of my favorite pizza restaurants in town. We were starving and decided to order a squash appetizer. It was so incredible, I went home immediately and recreated it… And have made it over and over again.

The squash was sliced thinly, tossed in a lemon-olive oil dressing and served raw. The lemon helps loosen the squash up a bit – by beginning the breakdown process – but it retains a nice crispness and flavor. Toss in sliced mint, basil and chevre and you have summer on a plate.

Squash Salad
Serves 4
2 zucchini
2 yellow squash
6 mint sprigs, leaves removed and roughly chopped
10 basil leaves, sliced thinly
2 tbsp of chevre, or another soft, delicious cheese
2 tsp of lemon juice
2 tbsp of olive oil
1/4 tsp of sugar
salt and pepper to taste

After washing your squash, begin to slice it into 1/8 inch slices. I used a mandoline (like this one), in order to get uniformly thin slices, but it will be fine if you just slice them thinly.

Next, make the dressing. First add the lemon juice to the salad bowl you are going to use. Add a pinch of salt and drizzle in a bit of the olive oil while whisking. Continue whisking until the solution is emulsified and changed to an opaque mixture. Next, add the remaining oil slowly, while continuing to whisk. Taste and add sugar if necessary. Add in at least 1/4 tsp of salt. You want it to taste tart and a bit salty. Add ground pepper and more salt if necessary.

Take your squash and half the herbs and add them to the bowl with dressing. Toss. Sprinkle the top with the remaining herbs and the chevre. This should be served immediately or within 10-15 minutes, before the lemon starts to break down the squash too much.

Portland Brunch

By: Mary Sue

26-07-2011

Blog, Restaurant List

Do you ever find that different people are constantly coming to you with the same question? I have friends who I turn to when I want to know how to sew something and others I ask how to keep my plants alive. And Erik probably has to answer more of my medical questions than he does his own patients.

I am known to my friends as the one who recommends where to go out to eat. I have lists in my head of restaurants. Lists that include where to bring people from out of town, where to grab a quick lunch, where you should go on your anniversary… So many lists, in fact, that I thought I should compile them here.

My favorite list to make is the one that involves people visiting from out of town. This is my favorite because you have a limited amount of time to cram down the best food Portland has to offer. And it is worth it.

This posts list is… Drumroll please…

Where should I take out-of-towners for brunch?

Unfortunately for non-natives, the experience of waiting two hours to get a table isn’t that appealing. I don’t mind so much at dinner when I can grab a cocktail and snack on something, but waiting for breakfast is not my favorite. Unfortunately, this is when waits are usually the longest. So I either go early, on a weekday, or pick some non-typical spots.

Broder: Scandinavian Deliciousness on SE Clinton

This is one of my favorite brunch places in town. If you aren’t well-versed in Scandinavian dishes think smoked trout hash; Danish pancakes that are way more like donuts than pancakes; breakfast boards piled high with walnut toast, cheese, ham, and a perfectly cooked egg; and roasted apples. The flavors are just unusual enough to be delightfully different, but not so unusual that you find yourself sticking out your tongue wondering what in hell it just tasted. Oh, and if you are there later in the day and want some lunch, the Swedish meatballs make Ikea’s taste like they come from a furniture store. Oh wait, they do.

Stats

Seating: Limited, no reservations

Wait: Long, coffee provided for free and seating next door at bar while waiting

Price: A little spendy for breakfast, but not crazy.

www.broderpdx.com

Simpatica: Foodies Do Brunch

This place is only open on Sundays for brunch (they do catering and an amazing dinner on the weekends as well). The wait is looo-ooong, but the food is worth it. They serve a typical NW breakfast with a seasonal rotating menu. Once I had this roasted beet and carrot hash, with a fried egg on top, that was so fantastic I had to recreate it, here. And as an eggs benedict groupie, their’s can compete with the best in town. Also, their Bloody Mary is not too shabby if you are into that sort of thing.

Stats

Seating: Family style, reservations only for 8 or more

Wait: I’ll say it again looo-ooong, but they provide coffee in the hallway while you stand there starving.

Price: Surprisingly reasonable. Not cheap for breakfast, but for the quality it is amazing.

www.simpaticacatering.com

Tasty n’ Sons: Tapas for breakfast?

Okay, so this place won restaurant of the year last year, and for a good reason. It is scrumptious. Brunch here will not help you lose the last five pounds, so swear off your diet for at least one morning. My only complaint is about the tapas style of serving. Food comes out as it is ready, not when the entire table’s food is up. For some reason, sharing two slices of french toast with a berry compote and whipped cream with four people just feels wrong. It is also wrong for three people to get their food ten minutes before the fourth person, leaving him to drool on the table while staring at the kitchen, hoping his food is up next. So, if you go, plan on ordering as a table and sharing. Oh, and get the shakshuka, a tomato stew with sausage and baked eggs. I have had it at both breakfast and dinner and it is fan-fricken-tastic.

Stats

Seating: Family style and individual tables. Large place.

Wait: So long that I have been turned away, saying they will not have any tables until breakfast ends. You can walk around a bit and get coffee or shop at some cute stores. Go early or on weekdays.

Price: Probably the most expensive of my brunch options, considering the tapas style makes you want to order everything off the menu. Worth it.

Tasty n sons

Subrosa: When you aren’t in the mood for the hype.

This is a tiny Italian restaurant up the street from my house and I probably go here more for breakfast than any other restaurant on the weekend. The food is good and simple, the service always friendly (helps that my book club/former Brownie trooper is a server – Hi Erin!), and the wait is typically non-existent. I am sure every neighborhood has a brunch spot like this, but this is mine. I once recreated one of their dishes, Ma’s Breakfast Bowl, on this here blog because I just love the healthy dish. The scrambles are good and always look out for the specials, because they are yummy.

Stats

Seating: Limited, but nice option for one large group. Call ahead.

Wait: 2 minutes at most?

Price: Great

www.subrosapdx.com

Fehrenbacher Hof: A coffee shop with one killer egg sandwich

This Goose Hollow coffee shop is a quaint and quirky collection of books, furniture, and patrons that welcomes you to skip work and hang out all day. It serves a few things for breakfast, but the best thing they make is a breakfast sandwich. Egg, cheddar cheese, ham (sausage or veggie sausage), tomato, and this AMAZING Rueben sauce made next door at the Goose Hollow Inn. I love that sandwich so much I drive across town in my pajamas to get it. Also, their pastries are yummy and I hear the breakfast burrito is a nice sandwich alternative.

Stats

Seating: Victorian house turned coffee shop: small, but with plenty of casual seating

Wait: As long as it takes them to fire up the broiler and make me my sandwich!

Price: Cheap-o

Fehrenbacher on Yelp

Portland Farmer’s Market: Something for Everyone!

As you may imagine from my partial locavore lifestyle, I spend some time each week at the farmers’ market. Typically, I go by myself to grab the farm-fresh eggs and plump, bruise-free berries before anyone else. But, when I am lucky enough to drag someone with me, I also make them eat breakfast. There are so many options, I can’t possibly list them all, so I will just name off a few of my favorites.

Pine State Biscuits: Their egg, fried chicken, cheese, and mushroom-gravy biscuit sandwich is so popular they now have two store fronts in SE and NE Portland. This thing will blow your socks off.

http://pinestatebiscuits.com/

Verde Cocina: This is Mexican/NW fusion is the smartest combination I have seen since salted caramel. They take farm-fresh produce and cook it with Mexican flavors and styles. The Huevos Rancheros with a white bean and garbanzo mash, piles of sauteed carrots and kale, and free-range eggs is healthy without tasting healthy. My favorite…

http://www.verdecocinamarket.com/

Tastebud: These people make wood-fired bagels and pizza right in the market. The bagel toppings are scrumptious and if you are having the kind of morning that requires pizza, this one hits the spot. They always mix it up at Tastebud, so try their seasonal pizza or rhubarb lemonade.

www.tastebudfarm.com

Portland Farmers’ Market Stats

Seating: Benches, grass, standing… Whatever you want.

Wait: Longest at Pine State and shortest at Tastebud

Price: Reasonable

http://www.portlandfarmersmarket.org/

The Big Egg: A Blind Recommendation.

In all truthfulness, I have never been to The Big Egg, but this food cart in the Mississippi Marketplace pod is rumored to have the best egg sandwich in town. I was going to try it out before posting, but apparently they are closed due to a death in the family for a few weeks. Luckily, the four over-the-top gushy recommendations for the cart have inspired me to include it on this list. Partly because it is made from a food cart and people visiting Portland should visit a food cart at least once. I will update this once I get a chance to sink my teeth into one of those famous sandwiches.

Stats

Seating: Ample outdoor seating

Wait: Rumors say LONG – like 45 minutes for a breakfast sandwich!

Price: Great

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